Soul Kitchen

Husband and I took the day off yesterday, to renew my passport and run some errands. Things went more smoothly than expected, and we had time for a leisurely lunch, and luckily so did my friend C. Which was how the three of us walked in to Soul Kitchen, which serves rather yummy Peranakan and Eurasian food. Peranakan food has elements of Malay and Chinese cooking, but is unique in its own way. Similarly, Eurasian food is a combination of European and Asian influences. Long before the word fusion cuisine was coined, we have Peranakan and Eurasian food, and this tradition is, thankfully, still being kept alive.

I am no expert at Peranakan or Eurasian food, surely the best judges would be those who grew up in such households, because each family have their own tightly protected and cherished recipes, and the restaurant versions were considered substandard. I have eaten my way around the few Peranakan and (even fewer) Eurasian restaurants, but have not been impressed by many. I would not say Soul Kitchen changed my mind, as we only tried three dishes, but there were some "encouraging" signs. I for one, was very much Encouraged by their Buah Keluak with Minced Pork. This was a dish I could see myself eating every day. Buah Keluak paste, loads and loads of it, was mixed with minced pork, and the paste was served in a small bowl, like ice cream. No more having to use little spoons (and fingers) to scrape the nuts that comes with the default Buah Keluak dish in most restaurants, the Ayam Buah Keluak (cooked with chicken). Here at Soul Kitchen, they've gotten right down to the point and just served the Buah Keluak. You could taste the pork mince, but the Buah Keluak got all the glory. Cooked Buah Keluak is rather bitter and oily tasting despite its sweet creaminess, almost like chocolate, but these sharp edges were rounded out beautifully by the pork juices and other unknown ingredients. Eating this dish reminded me of something truffled, one just can't get enough of that elusive and tantalising earthiness. And the grilled and sambal-slicked eggplant that came with it was just as dreamy though I wish they would give more than a few pieces.

The rest of the meal was just as encouraging, if not exactly reaching the ooh-aah-ness of the Buah Keluak. The devil curry was rich and spicy and tasted very homecooked. I liked this version more than the one at Casa Bom Vento. The sambal squid was fiery and cooked just right. They even have petai and prawn sambal in the menu. Petai is a very smelly bean which has a bittersweet taste (99% bitter I would say), but like many bitter foods, it pairs beautifully with strong and flavourful ingredients like sambal and seafood. Still, it is very much an acquired taste.
Umami: Oh look, petai! C, do you like petai?
C: Yes. Hmm...
Umami husband: Yeah, let's order this dish
Umami: Husband, do you eat petai? I thought you don't eat petai?
Umami husband: I eat Prawns!!
That settled it, we ordered the Petai/ Prawn dish, which was a little anticlimatic for being neither hot nor bitter, but for being too sweet! By then we were too full of the other good stuff to mind too much.

I am definitely encouraged to eat here more often. The place is small and fills up fast at mealtimes, so it may be advisable to call ahead before heading there.

Soul Kitchen
#01-01, 7 Purvis Street Tel: 6333-0676

Comments

[Wena]

PETAI SAMBAL! my favourite although i'm forbidden to eat it with my collegues. the... err... small 'breeze' is enough to stink up the car or elevator.

[jcheng]

Buah Keluak without the work - sounds good to me!

[chihuahua]

Buah keluak is like asian truffles!!
Did you have to reserve a table at soul kitchen?

[umami]

chihuahua, we walked in just before 12 pm and only 1 table was occupied so we had no problems getting seated. At 1 pm, most of the tables were filled. My friend said that sometimes they run out of food early, so I would suggest making reservations.

[stef]

oh petai is the best thing ever - the smell is really quite a "cost" but man, it's good stuff when you make it right. i miss my grandma's petai... i think mom will make it for me if i asked nicely this summer.